Tuesday, 12 December 2023

Charting the past

When reboxing some modelling supplies recently I discovered a folded paper map I've had for 39 years. It dates from an inter-railing* trip my ex and I did in the Autumn after graduating. On the Italian leg of the trip we made our way to Florence where a uni mate was living in his year abroad on his language course. I persuaded the other half that there was a really attractive city day-tripable from Florence.

So we arrived at the city where I picked up this map and, after an obligatory (and unsuccessful 😊) attempt to find a gallery open, I led the ex on a walk around the city walls. You see I'd read a library copy of Siege Warfare: the Fortress in the Early Modern World, 1494-1660 by Christopher Duffy, and remembered that the city of Lucca had an intact bastioned enceinte dating back to that period. Marvellous!














You might be able to make out the scale. If not, it is 1:6500 with the grid squares being 3cm a side, making them 195 metres a side. The bastion faces are therefore about 120 metres long. From east to west (9 squares) works out roughly 1.1 miles in old money. North to south (allowing for the slight angle) is c.0.6 miles (5 squares). 

Several years later, the other half (the ex) was having a very protracted labour with our firstborn. During the long lulls in action I turned to a copy of the same book by Duffy, and actually completed it by the time of the final breach! A most appropriate read. The whole experience felt very much like a siege - being stuck in one place, periods of pain and noise, several appearances by the professionals to assess progress of the attacker, bad food, brief periods of walking along the ramparts hospital grounds during quiet spells, and a final climactic outcome (capitulating on terms was not an option). Fortunately the city wasn't sacked, but contributions were extracted from the beaten citizens for many years to come.

13 comments:

  1. Fascinating map and story , thanks for posting it.
    Alan Tradgardland

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    1. You’re welcome. Glad it entertained you. Just a bit of self-indulgent reminiscence on my part.
      Chris

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  2. Inter railing is a trip back in time, as Uni classmates oft talked about it and I believe a few did. The only way to see Europe cheaply in those days. Carcking map and look like a nice place to visit to see the walls etc. It reminds me of a trip to Freistadt in Austria, where the old town is still well preserved and with most, if not all, of the town walls intact.

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    1. Indeed. Although in those days you were mainly limited to moving by around Western Europe without visas. I wanted to book a visa to go to Prague on that trip (if memory serves me correctly Czechoslovakia accepted inter-rail tickets) but the other half wasn’t keen. What a missed opportunity to see it before it was tarted up.
      Regarding Lucca, I only had one or two photos of the place, and those low artillery fortifications are notoriously difficult to capture in a meaningful way (they just look like big brick walls) with ordinary cameras. And getting film developed was an expensive business for students.
      Chris.

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  3. Might need to put that on the list of places to visit ?

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    1. If early modern artillery fortification is your thing (it is mine) then Lucca is highly recommended.
      The year before on an interrailing trip we went on a tour of the casemates of Luxembourg city. Awesome, as our Californian cousins say.
      Chris

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  4. I’ve walked and cycled on these ramparts too. Lucca is a terrific city to visit. Love the map.

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    1. The intervening 4 decades (4 decades!!) have added a patina to the map.
      Chris

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  5. Lovely map, my daughter went inte railing in the summer, Amsterdam, Berlin, Prague, Budapest , Ljubljana and Split, interesting central/Eastern bias, her bit of Russian helped in Prague apparently. I stayed with my ex in Florence in a room with a view and even though I owned a copy of the Duffy book and drove past Lucca, I didn't make it, just Sienna instead which I preferred to Florence, it was nice to see the Hawkwood painting in the flesh in the cathedral in Florence and I picked up a nice book on Piedmont uniforms!
    Best Iain

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    1. Sounds like your daughter had a lovely trip Iain.
      I liked Siena too - went there on the same trip 39 years ago. Anywhere that has a replica of Grimsby Dock Tower is good in my books 😉.
      Chris

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  6. Fantastic looking map and great memories Chris.

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  7. Haha Chris - if you were that sympathetic to your wife's long labour at the time, I am not surprised you are no longer married! Your description of her travails made me laugh out loud :)

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    1. Don’t go there Keith. Don’t open up that can of worms 😆.
      Chris

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