https://www.keepyourpowderdry.co.uk/2019/06/battle-of-cheriton-29th-march-1644.html
That post reminded me of a hot day in July last year when I took myself down to Hampshire to do the walk myself. Summer 2018 was one of the hottest ever recorded in the UK, so it wasn't the most comfortable weather to go traipsing round the countryside in. But I had some time off work whilst the family were at work and school, and what better way to use it than indulging my hobby and getting some exercise. The health app on my phone tells me I walked 11.3km that day, most of it at the time of the Cheriton walk. I find it a bit of a stretch that the walk was over 6 miles, so I don't take that as Gospel.
I won't tell you anything about the battle itself. That has been done many times before, by people better qualified, and better writers, than myself. For example: Here; and here. And that's not including printed material. I should also point out the Battle of Cheriton Project site here. For some reason I haven't figured out yet, it holds a fascination for me similar to what I feel about Lobositz in the SYW. Only this is much more accessible. It's on my 'to do list' of battles. In fact it was the main target I built up my cavalry forces so much this year. Maybe it's something for the coming weekend. Hmmmm!
Anyway, here are a selection of the photos I took on my walk round Cheriton last year. Hopefully they will be of some interest and use, giving an impression of the lie of the land. First up Church of All Saints, Hinton Ampner. The village didn't seem to feature much in the battle, the manor (now a National Trust property) was where Waller was headquartered before the battle. The church I found particularly attractive and unusual in my experience and looks like it deserves a closer look, but as it was at the start of a longish walk, on a hot day I decided to push on.
The location map on the British Listed Buildings site is quite useful for showing the pathways around the battlefield.
I walked down the hill from the church through the very picturesque hamlet of Hinton Ampner to start the walk proper at Petersfield Road stopping at the first information board:
From there I proceeded across the road to lane opposite (Broad Lane?) (below)
and then turned right (East) along Cheriton Lane (note this is the track running east-west between Cheriton Wood and Cheriton village and not the road of the same name to the north of the wood.
Here is the view looking west from Broad Lane at where the main Parliamentarian line would have been. Erratum: subsequent viewing of the Battlefield Trust's OS-based map indicates that the area shown below is too far south for the Parliamentarian position - it looks like they would have marched through this position on the way to the next ridge.
The trees in the centre left look like a wood but are in actual fact just a row of trees bordering Petersfield Road.
Looking up Broad Lane - this gives you a good impression of how formidable some of the hedgerows could be. I don't know if these hedges were there in 1644 (it's never wise to assume the landscape is really as timeless as the usual romantic view of the countryside would have us believe) but most accounts say how the Royalist cavalry were particularly hampered in their deployment by hedges lining lanes to the north of here. Also given the time of year of the battle (March) there would have been a lot less foliage to obscure visibility. Without the leaves in March it would probably just about be possible to poke a musket through and see your target, but not in summer. And they're far too high to see over. However, they may well have been lower and thinner in the seventeenth century if they were planted around new enclosures.
Just before Cheriton Lane meets Petersfield Road, there is a short footpath connecting the lane to Alresford Lane. This is where I went wrong. I was following directions which said turn left (north) along Alresford Lane and head up along a field boundary. In the field there is a broad track which seemed to fit the bill. It was only when I reached the top corner of the field I found myself hemmed in by hedges to the right and in front. I'd missed the gap through to Alresford Lane. I was on the wrong side of the hedge. Faced with the choice of doubling back or somehow squeezing through the hedge, I took the latter course and found out just how formidable these hedges can be! It would be virtually impossible to get through with a pike, or with a horse at all without the help of pioneers cutting a way through, let alone be in any kind of condition to fight formed opposition on the other side. Never complain about big movement penalties for crossing hedges - they're not the twee little things we have round our gardens! It would have been much easier to continue on Cheriton Lane to the road and then head up Alresford Lane from the road.
Once back on the proper track, I followed it north up past the edge of a spur of Cheriton Wood. From a distance it looks particularly dense but the leaves give a slightly misleading impression. It's a bit clearer close up as the following shows. Not ideal country for formed pike and shot units, but passable to musketeers.
Slightly further north the edge of the wood is further back, east, from the lane and you can see here how it is on a pronounced slope. I didn't walk up there, but it's not difficult to see how it would have a commanding view of the battlefield.
The lane continues in a northerly direction towards the area of the Royalist start positions and eventually comes out on the road called Cheriton Lane where it becomes Badshear Lane. Continuing north on the road for a hundred yards or so, I route-marched to a bend in the road where it turns east and a quarter of a mile later arrived at the T-junction with Scrubbs Lane where the monument below was installed in the 1970s.
After lunch I hot-footed it back down the road, west, then south west for about 1/2mile where there is a large modern barn by the road and junction with a track called Hinton Lane. I took the lane due south to Dark Lane which heads slightly more south west to New Cheriton. I'd stopped taking photos by then, as time was getting on. I walked through New Cheriton and stopped by a stream which I found out this evening is one of the tributaries of the River Itchen (the sources rise around Hinton Ampner). The Itchen heads north before turning west, before turning south again, through Winchester and Southampton where it enters the Solent.
After refreshing my feet in the stream I tootled down the road to the Hinton Arms before finally heading back to the car and home before rush hour.
Overall it was a very pleasant walk, not too testing despite the heat, and one that could be enjoyed by anyone who likes a walk in picturesque, lowland countryside with no interest in military history. For me it obviously also had added interest and proved quite instructive. If you're in the area or able to get there, I highly recommend it. Maybe I should re-visit it myself in March to get a better feel.
What a super post - very much enjoyed that. It looks very peaceful - was there anyone else around? When I went to Marston Moor last year the place was pretty much deserted apart from the odd passing car - it seemed incongruous that all those soldiers have disappeared so completely. Cheriton is not one of the battles I know a lot about, so you have encouraged me to read more about it.
ReplyDeleteDisappointed to read that the fitness app may have overstated the length of your walk. I didn't think they did that - does it count strides or does it work from GPS?
Hi Tony. Thank you for the kind words. Cheques in the post.
DeleteIt was absolutely deserted. Hardly saw a soul when I was walking, possibly because it was a weekday. There were quite a few people at Hinton Ampner manor, but not out in the fields and lanes.
It counts steps but also shows distance walked. Not sure if that is just an extrapolation from the steps with an assumed stride length or if it uses GPS tracking. It's the app that comes with the iPhone so I should be able to find out.
I had a quick check on books available last night, and there's an Adair book on Cheriton that is on sale for £35-40 on Abe Books and Amazon. Which is a bit steep. And there's a Laurence Spring booklet for £4-5. The web resources are probably a good a place as any to start.
Thanks for the plug and the kind words about my blog. Looking at your pictures, combined with my own experiences, I think I might take a packet of kitchen wipes to clean the algae from interpretation boards in future...
ReplyDeleteHah yes. They do look unloved. If I can remember next time I go on a similar walk, I'll take some wipes with me.
DeleteHi Nundanket, great post and very useful for those of us who can't easily visit these sites.
ReplyDeleteThank you sir. Keep Your Powder Dry has quite a few posts on visits in this region, as I mentioned above. I'm thinking of where to go next, so if there's any in particular you haven't seen I take requests...as long as they're not in the Anglo-Saxon vernacular and end in 'off'.
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