Plan A
Well I cut out the paper template and then proceeded to carve the polystyrene. As many of you predicted, this led to ‘rough edges’ due to the nature of the material.The side that the template was on wasn’t bad.
But the other side was as rough as a badger’s arse.
In one respect this isn’t a showstopper because the polystyrene sheet at c.2cm is much thicker than I need and the rougher bits can be carved away. But that is a lot of work.
Plan B
Before I went away on a project I found and ordered a thinner sheet made out of a different material that looks like it is less likely to suffer from the bobbliness* of expanded polystyrene. * that’s the correct technical term by the way.
This is produced for underfloor heating and comes in sheets 6mm thick. One sheet was c 5 quid for more than enough to layer up. One layer will do for the glacis level, one up from that will do for the ravelins and one more up for the bastions and curtain walls. It's easier to show than to describe......
The issue with this method is that I might need to draw a new template (the original will probably tear when I unstick it from the polystyrene). And I might need different templates for each layer OR use each layer as a template working up from the bottom.
This is where a potential Plan C came to my attention. I think it was Neil who found a supplier of ‘Vauban’ fortress pieces in different scales. My issues with this option were (a) that the geometry of the bastions etc was limited and not suitable for the dimensions and angles I wanted, and (b) the website for the e-Bay seller was difficult to navigate and work out what the products were exactly like . Then last week another blog (sorry I forget which) showed some products from another company. They have options for different bastion ‘angles’ and the dimensions are close to what I drew on my template.
I’m hoping to see some samples on Saturday at Broadside which should help with my remaining questions. Plan C could turn out to be much easier to execute than Plan B. In a way that would be a shame because I was finding the ‘self-build’ route satisfying. But at least the XPS board could be turned to other uses, like trench lines where the little guys can actually be below the surface of the table!
We’ll see.
If you’re going to Broadside on Saturday and would like to say hello let me know through the comments.
A bientôt mes braves.
Plan B looks good Chris. I have been wanting to build such a fort but the idea of the sloped glacis always put me off. But it seems you were not going to bother with that which is a great idea.
ReplyDeleteCould you just photo copy your plan as it is on the polystyrene? Save you redoing it.
I was hoping to have a bit of a slope for the glacis but it won't really work with this material.
DeleteFascinating following your progress. Really interested to see what comes next…
ReplyDeleteAlan Tradgardland
I’m quite excited to have different potential options Alan. Even the ‘shop bought’ one will require some modelling so there will be the potential for some ‘solutioning’.
DeleteChris
Sounds like there are viable options available. I kind of like the DIY option. At least you'll get exactly what you want. Perhaps you'll strike it lucky at Broadside. Hope to see you there.
ReplyDeleteThat's why I like the DIY option too. Well that and it's satisfying solving problems.
DeletePS hopefully we’ll be able to meet tomorrow. I’ll be meeting David in Suffolk at some point.
DeleteChris
Sorry to have been proven right Chris! ☺
ReplyDeleteI think it's easier in larger scales where such rough edges can be covered up with various things; 6mm leaves little room for error.
You can use the dense foam for the glacis and counterscarp if you find a suitable Vauban supplier that meets your needs. In this day of 3D printing there must be something out there.
Or smaller scale?
https://brigademodels.co.uk/product/six-pointed-vauban-fort/
http://theminiaturespage.com/boards/msg.mv?id=556026
https://totalsystemscenic.com/product-category/resin-buildings/6mm-vaubanesque/
https://www.warfayre.co.uk/shop?store-page=Vauban-Damaged-Bastions-%26-Walls-%26-other-parts-6mm-10mm-12mm-15mm-Forts-Wargaming-Star-Fort-p541134766
Neil
I haven't given up hope yet Neil! 😆
DeleteI looked through all of those links (thanks). TSS are limited in range of shapes, and a bit too big, Irregular are a bit difficult to see, the guy who does commissions (hmmm, but could be expensive), Warfayre has some odd designs, but step forward Brigade Models. The best I've seen. Just need to see how they look with a 6mm figure. Should find out tomorrow!
By the way, I'm enjoying that book, thanks. 👍
No problem Chris. I bought some bits from him at Hammerhead. They are very nice. I always think underscale buildings work better as they are more in keeping with the ground scale.
DeleteNeil
The bastions are almost the same size as the ones on my plan. The curtain walls are longer than on my plan. I suspect the parapets will be too low but that can be addressed.
DeleteChris
Sounds like youve got to at least one solution, I hope I get to my modular star fort someday!
ReplyDeleteBest Iain
I’ve been thinking about it for 46 years Iain. My last unfulfilled dream (I’ve learnt to lower my expectations in life😆).
DeleteChris
Interesting project Chris, I am yet to decide what to do with my recent purchase and the fact that I need some amended bits. I will probably wait till I actually want to use it then sort it out.
ReplyDeleteYep. It’s difficult to get some tasks done if there isn’t a specific target or object in mind.
DeleteChris
The thinner sheet should work a treat I reckon. When I used to still hand make models many moons ago, I would simply use the same template, but start with the largest area, then reducing it down as I went, holding it in place with pins, probably having stuck it to card or used thick paper.
ReplyDeleteYes, I was thinking to cut the bottom layer first (the glacis and the bottom layer of the ravelins, curtain walls and bastions), then the parapet of the ravelins and second level of the bastions/curtain, then the parapets of the bastions/curtain walls. But at each stage cut the used sections off the paper.
DeleteHopefully your plan B works. The complexity of the fort is certainly providing you with a challenge.
ReplyDeleteThe challenge is part of the satisfaction, however, if I find the commercial model tomorrow is right I might just revert to being a consumer!
DeletePersonally, I hope you persist with plan B Chris, although I can see the attraction of C! Polystyrene is a bstrd to use but you could try the other product and see how that goes......
ReplyDeleteYes. I find it quite calming drawing and cutting out. It’s like being back in infants school. I should probably play a tape to tape recording of that BBC Schools folks songs from around the world.
DeleteChris
A very interesting build and list of alternative ideas. I can't wait to see how this finally comes out.
ReplyDeleteYou won't have to wait long. See the start of the next post!
DeleteChris, I am with you all the way on wanting to scratch-build this fortress. It'll look heaps better and have far more character than a 3D printed version. I reckon you can 'salvage' your polystyrene one. A light sanding with fine sandpaper will easily remove the little balls/beading. You can introduce angles while you are at it. Just need to do it over a sheet or such to catch all the waste.
ReplyDeleteAlternatively, have you considered card (cereal packets and such make great material) for the 'outline' and then filling in the depth of walls will a glue & sand or glue & wood shavings or such like?
All the best with exploring different methods, James
I'm wary of using the card method. I'm not that accurate and am bound to leave gaps with working lines. It is also a very complicated shape to cut/bend&score.
DeleteSadly from your point of view, I've taken the plunge and bought commercial pieces. See next post. However, I will still need to scratch build the covered way and glacis.